Thursday, March 18, 2010

'On Melbourne' by Dan Brophy

Flinders St Station in ink.

I heart Melbourne: the way it’s people hook into a unique and tailored zeitgeist that governs the way they look, talk, dress, commune, engage, celebrate and relate.

Right or wrong, I love the subtle level of arrogance each Melbournian maintains about the elements that make them identify it as being ‘their city’.

It’s a cultural superiority complex inherited from our Italian influence, I’m sure. Indeed, the ‘Fitzroyalty’ ego is just the underdog-made-good pride of Europeans repackaged for the inner north.

However we are all guilty of drawing a line in the sand as to what makes our enclave of the city the best, yet our innate Melbourne-ness as a whole comes from the our similarities, not our differences.

But where did this innate Melbourne-ness come from? To a foreigner, Sydney may look the most like us superficially, yet the scratching of the surface would reveal a heart that beats to an entirely different rhythm.

The answer lies, I believe, in the cities’ immigration heritage. Sydney’s main ethnic influence is Lebanese, while Melbourne’s is Italian and Greek – it’s the fifth largest Greek city in the world.

At the time of social integration, Anglo Melbourne embraced the Euro-influence of the immigrants, possibly due to the simple fact that they preyed to the same god. Sydney has never fully culturally embraced all that it’s Lebanese could offer. This racial divide has forged a segregation, whereas in comparison, the industries spawned by the European influx i.e. cafes, restaurants and nightlife (none of which existed pre 1960s) have given Melbournians the lifestyle elements they pride themselves on most.

If you tapped a Melbournian on the shoulder at random and asked them if they love their city, chances are they wouldn’t just say yes, but would offer a list of reasons as to why (unlike, say, the average Londoner who could effortlessly roll off a list of the top ten things that ail -and ‘ale’- them).

Melbournians, like New Yorkers seems to pride themselves on all the things that they have been rendered out of necessity: the weather is tumultuous, therefore we have embraced fashion as a daily art form. However the key factor in making Melbourne style is that trends are acknowledged 6 months ahead of Europe and the US due to the fact that collections are shown around the time we are seasonally ready for them. Our northern hemisphere counterparts who have to wait until the weather adjusts and the High Street acknowledges a trend in order for a shift to be validated. Due to the fact it is practically impossible for the average person to wear International fashion labels, once it is imported and prices are converted from Euros and US dollars, Melbourne style is built on the foundation of that style awareness but then the individual’s story is usually told using a combination of local designers and thrift store finds.

The frenetic yet social nature of the city has meant a universal appreciation of coffee and it’s cafĂ© culture from power walking mums to power lunching business types and every hobo and boho in between. To me, Melbourne’s cultural history is embodied by the caffe latte: introduced by Italians, perfected by Greeks, enjoyed by almost everybody as the totem of all social activity from business to the most intimately personal.

Our love of good food and it’s shared experience, the most Mediterranean of our traits, is such a common interest that to be served an unsatisfactory meal is a personal insult and a professional shame. Entire neighbourhoods are built around cuisines, so much so that I find myself taking an out-of-towner on an ‘eating tour’ more so than any other landmark worth visiting – for what better way to show someone the essence of Melbourne than to eat well?

Yet a testament to the very Melbourne-ness of Melbournians is that Sydney-siders just don’t see what the fuss is all about. The things that they value in a city - based more on geography and displays of wealth– are not readily found here.

Yet it is this egalitarian availability of the finer things in life that make Melbourne culture so united: no matter which point of the compass you reside, which end of the socio-economic spectrum, chances are you value the ‘simple things’ done to a specific design: clothing, food, coffee, a cultural event. There are no financial boundaries or class divides that prevent one from ‘living well’ – a system of values no doubt put in place by the fact that our greatest cultural influence was once one of the poorest.

I heart Melbourne. We’d put it on a T-shirt if it could be abbreviated cleverly. Or would we - for fear that the rest of the world might find out about it too? Even so, they probably wouldn’t love it as much as we did.

Friday, March 12, 2010

'LMFF: The End of Fashion Ingenuity' By Dan Brophy

This week the city will be distracted by the mild hysteria surrounding the L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival.

It will provide nuggets of human interest for TV News, and excuse to put a saleable fashion image on the front page of newspapers, and a slew of product-sponsored events for the duration of the week.

Yet for a city that prides itself on being the epicentre of Australian Fashion, no one seems to comment on what a bonfire of mediocrity the festival itself is. A walking, breathing retail catalogue, wrapped up and wooped up as if it were to be seen alongside London, Paris, Milan and New York.

The biggest parade of the Melbourne fashion year, the showing of the winter collections is a whitewashed selection of the least outrageous of what Melbourne has to offer. This is due to the fact that a single ‘stylist’ appointed by the festival surveys each of the participating designers’ ranges and chooses which garments are shown -representing them in their most department-store-friendly form.

Rather than experiencing the full brunt of Australian design talent, all you will see is ‘style according the Herald Sun fashion editor’.

Therefore, fashion journalists and the witnessing public are fed the idea that fashion is meant to be safe, that it is meant to be basic, that it is meant to appeal to the ‘every man’. Impressionable youths return to their suburban enclaves and mimic what they see on models. They are encouraged to ‘tone it down’, play it safe or suppress an urge to follow an impulse that might otherwise start a wave of something more daring.

It’s as if we are so esteemed to have a week of expensively executed parades, we forgot to demand the same level of forward thinking and ingenuity that would any of the other artistic mediums we regard in this city. Year after tiresome year, the parade week leaves people bereft of remark, uninspired by an affair so otherwise full of pomp and circumstance - it should display more than just ‘The Emperor’s New Clothes’.

Ironically, the way many international style makers find their direction is via trend forecasting networks like WGSN, who charge their members a few thousand dollars a year to allow them into their database of current style catalogues.

These are compiled by paying ‘style watchers’ to photograph what trendy kids are wearing on the street, at art schools and at clubs in cities just like this.

These pockets of individuals, like ‘trend weathervanes’ unintentionally gage what the zeitgeist will gravitate towards next. Ready-to-wear designers then follow this advice, making collections based on the nucleus of the same idea, which Australian fashion festivals then try and mimic, dumb down and re-package back to us.

At best, all one could hope to gain from attending a parade like LMFF is to look at what the audience is wearing.

If there were to be a shift in this guileless trend, it would need to come from the ground up: those who are showing their wares should demand more exposure for their ground-breaking ideas; those at the journalist level need to comment on the how artistically waning the affair really is, and those at a consumer level need to demand a platform for design that is not indicative of what Myer will be stocking next season.

In the mean time, if you want to know what you’ll be wearing in three seasons time, don’t look to the catwalks, look to the streets.

As sure as the eventual return of the baggy jean, the Melbourne Fashion Festival in it’s current incantation is the antithesis of what fashion should be.

For those in need of instant inspiration:

http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/

A celebration of individual style. Scott Schuman travels the world photographing people in the street who’s style he deems worthy of the term ‘sartorialist’.

http://cyanatrendland.com/category/designer/trends/

A good example of a free trend-forecasting site, giving you an overview of looks that will eventually penetrate the mainstream.

www.style.com/

and the style.com iPhone app. are a great way to see every single international runway collection within hours of their premier.

My advice: create a file of images that speak to you, either copied and pasted digitally, or literally torn from magazines. Look this over and go op-shopping allowing your style to emerge though a combination of instinct and inspiration.

The best-dressed people in the world don’t buy designers as much as they inspire them.

What some of my favourite 'Melbourne Fashionables' are wearing. Images courtesy of the fashionista, complied by the author.